Hand Sewing Information- Stitches Used
This chart shows which stitches were used on various garments I have
made, and shows where they can be documented.
| Garment |
Type of stitch |
Source of documentation |
| T+C |
Norlund |
Hagg |
| Wool Gown |
Running stitch |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Hem Stitch |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Reinforced running |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Buttonhole |
yes |
yes |
|
| Linen Under dress |
Running Stitch |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Hem stitch |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Felling Seams |
|
yes |
yes |
| French seams |
|
|
yes |
| Overcast Stitch |
|
yes |
yes |
| Hoods |
Running Stitch |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Hem stitch |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Reinforced running |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Overlapping edge seam |
yes |
|
yes |
| Hose |
Overlapping edge seam |
yes |
|
yes |
| Back stitch |
yes |
yes |
yes |
| Overcast stitch |
|
yes |
yes |
| Hem Stitch |
yes |
yes |
yes |
Hand Sewing Information-Time Required
I calculated how long it would take to make various garments if they
were completed entirely by hand.
Greenland patterned gowns
Consist of: 11 long seams, plus gores at CF and CB, plus sleeves
Total: equivalent to about 14 long seams
Wool Gown
One seam took 0.5 hours to sew in running stitch, with occasional
backstitches in the fitted area for strength.
14 seams * 0.5 hours = 7 hours to complete a gown with hand stitches instead
of by machine.
Approximate times for the other hand sewing tasks on this type
of dress:
Neckline facing 2 h
Sleeve and Center Front openings 6 h
Card weaving (on CF, and sleeves) 4 h Buttonholes (CF and Sleeves) 10
minutes each * 60 = 10 h Button attachment 3h
Hem- skirt 1.5 h
Hem- sleeves .3h
Total handwork, if made totally by hand = approximately 34 h
I sew most of the seams by machine reducing handwork time by 6.5 h
Actual Handwork time = approximately 27.5 h
Please note that this does NOT include time for: planning, pattern making,
preparing all materials, mockups, cutting, pressing and general fussing.
:)
Linen Under dress
One seam took 0.5 hours to sew in running stitch, with occasional backstitches
in the fitted area for strength.
Because linen frays, the edges need to be rolled in. This required an
additional 0.75 hours.
14 seams * 1.25 h =17.5 h to complete a gown with hand stitches instead
of by machine.
Approximate times for the other hand sewing tasks on this type of dress:
Neckline facing 2 h
Overcast armholes (French seams are impossible on curved seams) 50
min for both = .9 h
Hem- skirt 1.5 h
Hem- sleeves .3 h
Total handwork, if made totally by hand = approximately 22 h
I sew most of the seams by machine reducing handwork time by 15.5
h
Actual Handwork time = approximately 6.5 h
Please note that this does NOT include time for: planning, pattern
making, preparing all materials, mockups, cutting, pressing and general
fussing. :)
Hoods
Basic sewing in running stitch took about 1 h
Tacking down seams (for flatness and strength) using running and hemming
stitches: about 3 hours
Hems took 0.6 h
Face hole finishing 1 h
Total Handwork for each Hood, approximately 4.6 h.
Please note that this does NOT include time for: planning, pattern making,
preparing all materials, mockups, cutting, pressing and general fussing.
:)
Hose - Wool
Feet are sewn in overlapping edge stitch- about 2 hours
Back seam sewn in backstitch- about .75 hours
Total time for a pair of hose, approximately 2.75 h
Hose- Linen
Feet are sewn in overlapping edge stitch- about 2 hours
Back seam sewn in backstitch- about .75 hours
Overcast back seams- about 1 hour
Hem top edge of hose- about .75 hours
Total time for a pair of hose, approximately 4.5 h
Please note that this does NOT include time for: planning, pattern making,
preparing all materials, mockups, cutting, pressing and general fussing.
:)
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